• Paint Protection Film (6.5 – 10 mil, colour or clear)
• Johnson’s Baby Shampoo
• Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) – 99% preferred
• 2 × Spray bottles (labelled Slip / Tack)
• Soft, medium & hard PPF squeegees
• Microfibre towels
• Heat gun or steamer
• Wrap gloves
• 30° cutting knife or knifeless tape
• Edge tucking tools

Wash the vehicle, clay-bar the surface, and wipe down using IPA to remove grease or wax. Ensure the panel is completely dry, smooth, and dust-free before you begin. Any dirt or particles left behind will show through the film and weaken adhesion.

You’ll need two types of spray solution:
Slip Solution: 1 L distilled water + 2 mL Johnson’s Baby Shampoo — allows the film to float and move freely on the surface.
Tack Solution: 150 mL of 99% isopropyl alcohol + 850 mL distilled water — used for corners, edges, and recessed areas to lock the film down. Never exceed 17% alcohol by volume.

Spray Slip Solution generously on the panel. Peel the liner from the film and immediately spray the adhesive side to prevent dust. Lay the film gently onto the surface without pressure. If working solo, create a dry anchor point by squeegeeing one area to hold position.

With the film floating on Slip Solution, align it accurately along edges and curves. If the film drags, reapply Slip Solution. Do not squeegee yet — ensure perfect alignment before continuing.

Lift a corner, spray Tack Solution underneath, and lay it back down under moderate tension. Repeat for all anchor points. This establishes your frame and reduces fingers or tension lines, improving stretch control and edge wrapping.

Stretch gently across curves or recesses using heat if required. Avoid overstretching. Allow tight curves to sit for 10–20 minutes before forcing down edges to let the adhesive set and improve long-term hold.

Start in the middle and push solution outward with overlapping strokes. Spray Slip Solution on top to reduce friction. Work evenly and wipe away excess fluid to prevent pooling. Focus on body lines and recessed panels.

If debris is trapped under the film, lift that section, spray Slip Solution, remove contaminant, and reapply. Minimize early use of Tack Solution to avoid adhesive marks.

After smoothing, trim excess material with a sharp 30° blade or knifeless tape. Spray Tack Solution along the edges, flush out Slip Solution, and seal corners tightly. Start with complex curves first for the cleanest result.

Small bubbles are normal. Press them out or use a fine needle to vent air. The puncture will self-heal as the adhesive cures and heat is applied.

Warm all edges and corners with a heat gun or steamer to secure adhesion. Let the vehicle sit indoors for several hours or overnight before exposure. Avoid washing or waxing for 7 days. Allowing a 10–20 minute dwell period before final heat-sealing improves edge hold.

• Coverage Area / Estimated Time (Beginner)
• Small panels (mirrors, headlights, door edges) / 30–60 minutes each
• Full hood or bumper / 2–4 hours
• Full front-end (hood, bumper, fenders, mirrors) / 6–10 hours
• Full vehicle wrap / 15–25 hours +

• The wet-install method is identical for colour and clear PPF — only the finish differs.
• Maintain a clean workspace, correct slip/tack ratio, and sufficient curing time.
• Patience and precision will ensure a smooth, seamless, and long-lasting result.

Not sure if a bumper needs an inlay, or what post-heat temp your film requires? Chat with Cars Wrap Supplies — we’ll match tools and techniques to your exact vinyl brand and job.

This guide is general advice; always follow your film manufacturer’s technical data sheet for exact heat and handling specs.